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An auto collision can leave you understandably stressed, whether there were injuries or not, and one of the most stressful parts in the aftermath is finding out you have to pay out-of-pocket for repairs. Even if you have insurance coverage, there may be instances when you have to pay, and it could go beyond your anticipated deductible.
In some cases, the cost for repairs quoted by a mechanic will exceed the amount your insurance provider is willing to pay. Often, your insurer will work with your mechanic to make adjustments that reduce costs, but this doesn't always work out. What can you do when the estimate leaves you holding the bag on repair costs?
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When you purchase a vehicle, the dealership will likely offer all kinds of extras, like: upgraded features; special, protective coating for the paint and upholstery; and, possibly an extended vehicle warranty. If you plan to keep your car for many years or you have a long commute that puts added miles and wear and tear on parts, an extended warranty could make a lot of sense from the get-go.
Many drivers, don't start to consider an extended warranty until their new car warranty is about to expire. Unfortunately, this can cause some issues, because over time, events might occur that make your car ineligible for an extended warranty. If you find out after the fact, you may be left without coverage and with no recourse to recoup the cost of the warranty. How can you tell if your car is eligible or not before you invest in extended warranty coverage?
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Since the establishment of the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) in 1970, auto and auto parts manufacturers have been required to adhere to specific safety laws and issue public recalls in the event of defects.
Unfortunately, the number of recalls in the past two decades alone climbed into the many millions. In fact, roughly 50 percent of history's biggest auto industry recalls have occurred in the past 10 years and their frequency increased significantly. Of note is that the average age of recalled vehicles in 1980, it was around 24 months, while today it is 50-60 months.
Regardless of vehicle age, many of the most infamous recalls involved defects leading to dozens of deaths because of faulty ignition switches (GM), pedal "entrapment" (Toyota), faulty airbags (Takata) and other design flaws.
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When you purchase a new car, or even a certified pre-owned vehicle, you're typically going to enjoy a bumper-to-bumper warranty that covers all major parts against premature failure. New cars tend to come with a warranty of no less than three years, but many manufacturers offer as much as 5-6 years, or the amount of time it might take to pay off a car loan. With a certified pre-owned vehicle, the length of warranty will likely be based on the age and mileage on the car at the time of purchase.
The question is, what happens when your warranty expires? What if your transmission starts acting up or your alternator malfunctions? Will you be on the hook for hundreds or thousands of dollars in repair work? The good news it, you can look into options for an extended warranty for coverage and peace of mind; however, it's important to understand what you're getting. Here's what you need to know.
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Even if you trust your dealer or tire company to outfit your car with the right tires for your needs, it's never a bad idea to understand what you're buying. This starts with knowing what size of tires you need and how to read the information provided on the sidewall of the tire. Here's a basic primer to read through before you go tire shopping.
Understanding Tire Markings
Unless you're into the mechanical aspects of your vehicle, you may never have looked at the sidewall of your tire. If you take a gander, what you'll find is that there's a lot more information there than the manufacturer's name. In fact, there are several different categories of markings on your tire that deliver all kinds of useful information. How can you read it?